Yoon Ahn, an innovative and creative designer, has been one of the forces of transformation in fashion. His bold and experimental approach, combined with a deep understanding of contemporary and avant-garde concepts, is likely to redefine today's fashion landscape.
The AMBUSH brand, which began as a reference in the cult jewelry scene in 2008, under the umbrella of the current New Guards Group – an Italian community with a fashion/luxury focus – has expanded to encompass a complete ready-to-wear collection.
Renowned Hip-Hop artists, including Lady Gaga, A$AP Rocky, Rihanna, Kanye West Travis Scott, among others from the world of Kpop have become devotees of the brand. His impact on fashion and music culture is notable.
Yoon Ahn's journey is marked by his diverse origins, born in South Korea, raised in Boston and later settling in Tokyo, where he founded his brand.
Her career began as a jewelry designer and her bold work caught the attention of celebrities such as Pharrell Williams and Kim Jones, who would later invite her to work with him.
Yoon and Kim Jones at the Dior fashion show
It all started in 2008 when Yoon founded AMBUSH in partnership with Japanese rapper Verbal. Initially known for its striking and extravagant oversized jewelry, the brand has evolved over the years, expanding its range to the world of ready-to-wear, always maintaining an aesthetic inspired by vibrant Tokyo with a futuristic and enigmatic look, but also, carrying a timeless symbolism of other cultures she has known and experienced.
On his creative journey, Yoon also worked at other companies. In 2010, she joined the team at BAPE, a Japanese streetwear brand, where she encountered challenges related to female representation in fashion.
When her proposal for a BAPE bikini was rejected as “too sexy and provocative”, Yoon decided to take control of the situation, creating her first AMBUSH collection five years later.
The year 2015 marked a turning point, when AMBUSH launched its first collection, creating a perfect setting for its cult accessories – later establishing notable collaborations with fashion giants, focusing on fashion design, including names like Sacai, Off-White , Gentle Monster and Nike, which demonstrated his creative and bold power.
In 2016, AMBUSH celebrated a significant milestone by opening its first flagship store in Tokyo. Space that faithfully reflects the essence of the brand, combining creativity and design under the same studio roof.
The opening of the flagship store was followed by the establishment of several pop-up stores in various parts of the world.
In 2017, the brand gained prominence on the luxury fashion scene when it was selected as a finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize. The following year, AMBUSH held its first show at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo, a significant milestone that further captivated the public and the result was Yoon's appointment as director of jewelry design at Dior Homme by Kim Jones in 2018, further consolidating further its position in the fashion industry.
The brand's creative concept reinforces the freedom and the reinvention, legitimizing individual expressions by challenging conventional gender norms, allowing for greater creativity in unisex pieces, made for everyone in an inclusive way.
Ready-to-wear has become a fundamental pillar in AMBUSH's creations, playing a prominent role in the brand's evolution, combining streetwear with high-quality fashion.
The first collaboration took place in 2018 with Nike and brought an immediate impact to the brand, combining creativity and sports fashion in a unique way. Nike is not limited to traditional sports, but values commitment, practice and determination, which are values shared with athletes.
This synergy brought a paradigm shift by incorporating elements of casual fashion with performance needs, with versatile pieces that fit both in the sporting context and in everyday life, offering functionality and style.
The fourteen-piece collection was inspired by Tokyo's aesthetic and includes: a redesigned Dry-Fit stretch bodysuit, a crop top, a tracksuit and an iconic faux fur coat, available in black and mint green, with the reversible option in wool on the inside.
Additionally, Yoon Ahn has reinvented the Air Max 180, a pair of sneakers that captivated him in his childhood, now presenting his own version of this classic, combining elements of the Air Max 180 with the Air Zoom Flight, resulting in a unique iteration.
That collaboration launched on December 6, 2018, while the Air Max 180 was available in Spring 2019.
And the creative core continued at full steam, the launch of the new AMBUSH X Nike Dunk High ”Black” took place in 2020 and marked the beginning of an incredible collaboration that also included NBA apparel. The goal was to design a capsule collection that captured the essence of 90s basketball.
And the icing on the cake was the creation of the Dunk High, a classic silhouette that made a strong comeback, reimagined by Yoon, taking inspiration from the Japanese culture of bicycles, cars and motorbikes.
The design features a special swoosh that resembles the barrel of a motorcycle, giving the sneaker a unique touch.
Additionally, the high-quality leather upper and black and white combination provide a modern look.
The NBA women's basketball collection, also created by the same, paid tribute to the Los Angeles Lakers and Brooklyn Nets teams.
The designer transformed typical pieces, such as warm-up pants, into unique creations, with details reminiscent of shorts and a touch of retro nostalgia. The jackets in the collection also follow the 90s aesthetic – an expression that carried a bold and creative vision, and the collection was available at Nike on December 11, 2020.
Another three new versions of sneakers were released: The second version, known as Active Fuchsia in a hot pink tone, was released in February 2021.
The third color option, Deep Royal, stands out as the most popular choice among all, with its white toe box and royal blue details, in addition to the elongated swoosh.
And finally, the vibrant Nike Dunk High Ambush Flash Lime, with its very vibrant lemon yellow tone, the latest addition to the collection, accompanied by a collection of clothing inspired by Japanese motorcycles in tones that mix pink, white and a black stripe on the bottom written AMBUSH.
Keeping up the momentum, following the Nike Dunks Highs, Yoon Ahn and Nike decided to explore new silhouettes more broadly. They've brought back the archive Nike Air Adjust Force, a classic silhouette from 1996, presenting it in two colorways:
Black Psychic Purple and Summit White/Black, in November 2021. As is characteristic of AMBUSH, Ahn reinvented the model with distinctive touches. These subtle modifications included a slightly lowered profile, the incorporation of Nike Grind into the midsoles and custom heel detailing.
Additionally, FitWrap straps added a customizable element to the design. The collaboration between Nike and AMBUSH continues to surprise, successfully expanding its range.
In 2022, AMBUSH continued its successful trajectory with the Nike Air Adjust Force, launching two new, more vibrant colors. First revealed in August, it wasn't long before the "University Blue" and "Light Madder Root" pairs were available globally in October.
Keeping with the original approach, one pair featured a more tonal colorway, while the other maintained a black midsole. Additionally, Yoon Ahn announced a street rave in Milan as part of Fashion Week, generating even more excitement around this successful collaboration.
AMBUSH has established itself as a major influence on streetwear culture and the sneaker industry in recent years. At the end of 2022, the brand launched the AMBUSH x Nike Air Force 1 Low SP in royal blue and dark green with the swoosh in yellow details, and on March 9, 2023, the collaboration was enriched with two new colorways: Phantom and the black.
Further diversifying its range of sneakers, the brand once again joined forces with Nike to collaborate with the Uptempo Low ”Limestone” – covered in a mesh made up of beige leather panels that contrast with the air written in yellow – the robust midsole was complemented with a Nike air tractor sole that provides greater comfort.
It is worth mentioning that Uptempo's aesthetic itself has not undergone significant changes over the years, just like the 2017 Supreme collection, the big difference of this AMBUSH collaboration was to bet on more vibrant color schemes, featuring AIR bubble windows. translucent with the swoosh on the back in red tones.
Limestone, Vivid Sulfur and Black and White have been launched so far, the last two on October 19th.
Below are more notable AMBUSH collaborations:
AMBUSH X BAPE
One of AMBUSH's most iconic partnerships came in 2009, when it joined forces with A Bathing Ape (BAPE), a renowned Japanese fashion brand known for its bold and striking graphics.
The result was a highly coveted capsule collection comprised of exclusive jewelry, graphic hoodies, t-shirts and footwear. The collaboration became known as “A Bathing Ape Is Ambushed”, accurately reflecting the creative fusion.
AMBUSH X Beats by Dre
In the music sphere, AMBUSH has ventured into a partnership with Beats by Dre, launching a special edition Powerbeats headphones. Inspired by the energy and brightness of Tokyo nightlife, these headphones not only deliver exceptional audio performance, but also glow in the dark, making them a unique and eye-catching product from Beats.
AMBUSH X Reebok
In 2012, AMBUSH began a series of collaborations with iconic sportswear brands, starting with Reebok. The partnership resulted in three limited editions of Reebok's Instapump Fury HLS. The first edition reinvented the sneaker with a black base, a striking silver air chamber and AMBUSH logo on the heel. Subsequent editions maintained the monochromatic aesthetic, adding bright red and blue accents.
AMBUSH X Gentle Monster
In 2019, AMBUSH collaborated with renowned South Korean eyewear brand, Gentle Monster. The result was a collection of bold, futuristic frames, released in three translucent color palettes.
The eyewear pieces featured a quirky silver feature and a chain with both brands' logos.
These collaborations were highlighted in AMBUSH's Fall/Winter 2019 lookbook.
AMBUSH x Converse
In 2019, AMBUSH teamed up with iconic American skate brand Converse, reinventing two classic models: the Chuck Taylor All Star Duck boot and the Chuck 70 Fuzzy High-Top.
The collaboration renewed the traditional design of this sneaker. Due to the success of the debut collection, a second collaboration was launched in early 2021. It includes two innovative versions of Converse silhouettes, highlighting AMBUSH's expanded proportions and introducing elements of strength and functionality.
Although AMBUSH has expanded into streetwear and sneakers, it remains true to its roots. The brand's jewelry collection continues to evolve, with a continued focus on creating streetwear-inspired pieces.
Yoon Ahn shows that the brand continues in constant cycles of evolution, beginning a new saga of innovation, creativity and constant redefinition of standards, a journey that has left an indelible mark on contemporary fashion.